Etwango’s Journey: From Dundee to Homecoming and Heartbreak

In mid-March 1887, Etwango’s time in Dundee came to a close after just five months. During his stay, he made noteworthy progress in learning English, displaying “exemplary” behavior. A familiar sight around the city, he was regarded as “a very quiet and inoffensive man.” His friend, Captain William Adams, raised approximately £17 to support Etwango, which he used to purchase a rifle, a shotgun, and ammunition. As he prepared to depart, many well-wishers gathered at the docks to offer gifts for him and his family, including a prayer book from a minister. Unfortunately, Etwango had not yet learned to read English, rendering the gift somewhat useless.

Among the items he took back home were a chest of tools and numerous knives. Mrs. Adams generously donated a large quantity of comforters and around 200 yards of flannel intended for Etwango’s wife. The ship Maud made a brief stop in Lerwick, Shetland, where Etwango again captured public attention. Described by the Shetland News as “the Eskimo chief,” he donned his native attire and demonstrated kayaking skills to a crowd that swelled to an estimated 2,000 spectators. His performance included native songs and dances, similar to those he had showcased in Dundee, resulting in more gifts for his family.

After leaving Lerwick, the Maud continued to navigate the icy waters of the Davis Strait, where the crew successfully hunted two bowhead whales and several walruses. When the ship reached Melville Bay, ice conditions forced Adams to alter course to reach the Baffin coast. As they drew closer to home, Etwango exhibited signs of being “moody and disconsolate,” leaving Adams concerned about his emotional state. It seemed that his experiences in Dundee had left him with a yearning for the life he had left behind.

The Maud was unable to reach Durban Harbour due to land-fast ice, prompting Etwango and some crew members to travel approximately 15 miles over the ice to signal the Inuit community. Upon their arrival, several of his fellow Inuit greeted him, but Etwango took a moment to rest before reuniting with his family. His reunion with his wife was notably subdued, but he was visibly joyful to see his daughter. His wife, while initially reserved upon seeing Etwango, expressed her excitement when she discovered the gifts from Dundee, including a melodeon—a type of button accordion.

To the astonishment of the ship’s crew, she played a familiar tune, “There’s Nae Luck about the House,” a popular Scottish song narrating a sailor’s wife waiting for her husband’s return. She followed this with “The Keel Row,” a folk song from northern England about coal workers. Reports indicated that she had previously learned to play various tunes on the concertina while in Cumberland Sound. There was some confusion regarding the instruments, but it was also plausible that she was adept at both.

During a gathering in Kinnaird Hall back in Dundee, the event’s chairman expressed optimism that with the melodeon, Etwango’s wife could bring joy through music during long winters. Etwango also returned with a supply of petticoats for the women in the camp, leading to a moment of levity as several women donned the colorful garments over their sealskin dresses.

Captain Adams described Etwango as “an honest, hard-working, warm-hearted fellow” who had become a proficient sailor, well-liked by his crewmates. His skill as a hunter was particularly noted; he proved to be an excellent marksman during seal hunting. Adams reflected on how Etwango’s experiences in Dundee seemed to have given him a distaste for his previous lifestyle.

Etwango expressed a desire for Adams to return him, his wife, and child to Dundee the following year, but this did not materialize. The next year, Adams returned to the Davis Strait, but upon checking in on Etwango, he found him in a state of “dejection.” Reports indicated that his wife’s stepmother had moved in with them after her husband’s death, negatively influencing Etwango’s wife.

The peace that had once existed in their home was disrupted, as the older woman wished to return to Cumberland Sound. While Etwango was out hunting, she convinced his wife to leave under the cover of night, taking with her many of the gifts sent from Dundee. The Dundee Advertiser lamented the situation, suggesting that “the course of true love does not run any smoother among the Esquimaux than it does among more civilized people.”

Devastated, Etwango wanted to return to Dundee on the Maud, but an uncle persuaded him to stay behind. The following year, ice conditions once again prevented Adams from reaching Durban Harbour, and tragically, he passed away soon after. The fate of Etwango remains unclear; it is unknown whether his wife returned or if he followed her to Cumberland Sound. The historical record offers no further insight into his life after these events.

This account of Etwango’s journey serves as a poignant reminder of the challenges faced by individuals navigating between two worlds. The story highlights both the cultural exchanges and personal struggles inherent in such transitions. Historian and writer Kenn Harper, who lived in the Arctic for over 50 years, offers these reflections as part of his ongoing column, Taissumani, which seeks to illuminate events of historical significance.