Ottawa’s National Arts Centre Welcomes First Resident Chef

The National Arts Centre (NAC) in Ottawa has appointed its first resident chef, Peter Hum, a notable restaurant critic with a rich culinary heritage. On the first Monday afternoon of January, Hum engaged in a unique tasting session at 1 Elgin, the NAC’s restaurant, alongside executive chef Kenton Leier and executive sous chef Connor McQuay. This event marked a significant moment as Hum, instead of critiquing dishes, provided insights and suggestions for a new menu set to debut shortly.

During the tasting, Hum sampled a variety of dishes not yet available to the public, including tuna crudo, beef tartare, roast pork belly, crispy pan-fried haddock, and duck breast. His role as a resident chef is rather unconventional, focusing on consulting rather than traditional cooking. This opportunity arose from discussions he had with Leier and McQuay, where they explored dishes that reflect Hum’s personal culinary journey and his family history.

Hum is particularly proud to be the first non-chef and the first Chinese-Canadian to hold this esteemed position since the NAC’s resident chef program began in 2019. His menu aims to bridge cultural experiences, drawing inspiration from his travels in China and his family’s culinary legacy in Ottawa. Hum’s background includes working in his father’s restaurant, the Marco Polo Tavern Restaurant, during his teenage years in the 1980s.

Bridging Cultures Through Cuisine

The menu at 1 Elgin will feature items that reflect Hum’s experiences, including traditional Chinese dishes such as wonton noodle soup. This dish holds a special place in his heart, as it has been a comfort food since childhood. Hum’s recent visit to Guangzhou allowed him to experience authentic wonton noodle soup, which has inspired him to challenge the NAC’s chefs to recreate that level of excellence.

While the wonton soup is a staple in many Chinese-Canadian restaurants, Hum is determined to elevate it. He insisted on including shrimp in the wontons and ensuring they are made in a traditional style, rejecting any overly processed alternatives. This commitment to authenticity is a hallmark of Hum’s approach as he navigates the culinary landscape at the NAC.

Incorporating ingredients with deep cultural significance, Hum proposed adding tangerines to the tuna crudo. This fruit, particularly valued in Southern China, symbolizes luck and familial bonds during the Lunar New Year celebrations. Hum’s vision for the menu demonstrates his desire to create a connection between his heritage and contemporary dining.

Anticipation for the Upcoming Gala Dinner

The excitement surrounding Hum’s residency is building, particularly with the upcoming gala dinner scheduled for January 29, 2024. This event will showcase dishes he has curated alongside the NAC’s kitchen team, aiming to unite patrons through shared culinary experiences. Hum envisions this gala as a celebration similar to a recent family gathering he hosted in China, where relatives came together over a communal meal.

Feedback on Hum’s initial offerings has been promising, with patrons enjoying the dishes at 1 Elgin. General manager of food and beverage Nelson Borges noted that empty plates are the best indicator of success, and the menu has been well received.

As the first resident chef at the NAC, Hum is not only honoring his family’s legacy but also creating a new narrative for contemporary Canadian dining. The integration of traditional flavors with modern techniques aims to resonate with a diverse audience, fostering appreciation for culinary artistry while celebrating cultural heritage.