Grace Wales Bonner Appointed Creative Director at Hermès

Hermès, the renowned French luxury brand, has appointed Grace Wales Bonner as its new creative director for men’s ready-to-wear collections. This landmark decision, announced this week, makes her the first Black woman to lead design at a major European luxury house. Wales Bonner, known for her unique fusion of fine tailoring and diverse cultural influences, takes the reins from Veronique Nichanian, who has held the position for an impressive 37 years.

Wales Bonner, who is just 35 years old, has gained recognition for her innovative approach to fashion. Her work is characterized by meticulous craftsmanship and a contemporary aesthetic that resonates with modern audiences. Pierre-Alexis Dumas, an heir to the Hermès legacy and current overseer of the brand’s artistic direction, emphasized that Wales Bonner’s vision will significantly shape the future of Hermès men’s style.

A Shift in Creative Direction

The appointment of Wales Bonner is part of a broader trend in the luxury fashion industry, where many prestigious brands have recently refreshed their creative teams. In 2023 alone, notable names at Celine, Christian Dior Couture, Chanel, Gucci, Loewe, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, and Fendi have transitioned to new designers. This shift often aligns with a generational change, moving towards fresh perspectives in a traditionally conservative industry.

Wales Bonner’s appointment is seen as a significant move for Hermès, a brand that has typically favored internal talent over high-profile external designers. Her background and vision are expected to breathe new life into the brand while maintaining the rigorous standards that Hermès is known for.

A Rising Star in Fashion

Born in London to an English mother and a Jamaican father, Wales Bonner established her eponymous label after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2014. She quickly garnered acclaim, winning the Emerging Menswear Designer award at the British Fashion Awards in 2015, followed by the LVMH Young Designer Prize in 2016. In 2019, she was awarded the British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, showcasing her significant impact on the industry.

Wales Bonner’s work extends beyond her own label. She played a pivotal role in revitalizing Adidas AG‘s retro three-striped Samba trainers, which saw a remarkable resurgence in popularity. Her collection with Adidas, launched in November 2020, explored themes of 1970s subcultures through the lens of Caribbean youth in London. The unique designs, including a version of the Samba featuring hand-crocheted stripes, have become highly sought after, with resale prices soaring.

As Wales Bonner transitions to her new role, questions remain about her future collaborations and the status of her personal label. Her first official show for Hermès is slated for January 2027, with the upcoming collection typically presented during Paris menswear week being managed by the studio as part of the transition.

While Wales Bonner will not be the sole female designer at Hermès—Nadege Vanhee has overseen the women’s line for over a decade—her appointment signifies a crucial step toward diversity in leadership roles within luxury fashion. As Hermès continues to thrive, the blend of Wales Bonner’s innovative spirit with the brand’s esteemed heritage could redefine its identity in the competitive luxury market.